2012 Burgundy report by Berry Brothers & Rudd

2012 was a difficult vintage for the vigneron as the Burgundians struggled with hail, frost, bad flowering and disease. However, nature's natural selection produced a tiny crop of healthy highly concentrated berries that were a winemaker's dream. In my vintage report of 16 December, I described the result as more refined than 2009 (but less rich), richer and more approachable than 2010 (but less defined) with the same terroir recognition of 2008, but higher quality and more balanced. The reds are fabulous across the board: expressive, rich, with dark fruit and a vibrant energy that lifts the wine. The extrovert character of the wines is balanced by sufficient acidity that gives nerve and freshness to the wines. The small fragrant berries with high skin-to-fruit ratio have produced wines that are truly exciting with real Pinot character and individual expression of terroir. Without doubt a year for Pinot aficionados. The whites are more mixed than the reds, but in many cases are superb. Like 2011 they are rich with strong overtones of citrus and yellow starfruit. They are attractive, aromatic wines with exceptional concentration and in the best cases there is finesse to balance the power.

Reds

2012 Corton, Clos des Cortons, Grand Cru, Domaine Faiveley @ £576 per 6 bottles in bond

For a few years now Erwain shows his Corton Clos des Cortons after his Clos de Beze and it is among the most mesmerising wines of the Domaine. It is a lively wine that captures the imagination with a brilliant freshness. It is close knit at the moment, with a purity that reflects the direction the property is taking under Erwain. The nose has luxurious spice and the finish simple dances on the palate. Bravo.

2012 Clos des Lambrays, Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays @ £660 per 6 bottles in bond

Grandeur on the palate, with dark fruit, a touch of wildness and a mouthfilling fatness is easily balanced by freshness and purity. It has a Richebourgesque note to the wine and will require substantial ageing. Domaine des Lambrays is a domaine that I have followed for a long time and features heavily in my cellar. The wines mirror the quiet aristocratic character of their creator Thierry Brouin, but sadly production is down by over 50% in 2012 and it is likely to sell fast. Therefore this will initially be limited to one 6 bottle case per person.

2012 Nuits-St Georges, Aux Thorey, 1er Cru, Benjamin Leroux @ £294 per 6 bottles in bond

It seems as if Ben Leroux can do nothing wrong. Starting at a young age at Comte Armand as winemaker, he now also owns his own business and his wines are receiving glowing reviews from all the critics. The 2012 Nuits is finely structured, with sweet red cherries and an enticing aroma of violets.

2012 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Evocelles, En Foule, Domaine de la Vougeraie @ £195 per 6 bottles in bond

Planted at 36000 vines per hectare this must be among the highest density plantings in France. As a result the vines compete for water and nutrients producing small, highly flavoured berries. The wine shows ripe berries with rich cherry notes, finesse of a fine tannic structure and a finish that continues for a very long time. The 100% whole clusters are easily blended with the ripeness of fruit.

2012 Volnay, Clos de la Rougeotte, 1er Cru, Domaine François Buffet @ £175 per 6 bottles in bond

So this is slightly over the  budget of value buy, but it is a  new property in our portfolio and exceptionally good for the price. Specialising in Volnay, the estate suffered losses of almost 70% in 2012, but the wines are delicious. Clos de la Rougeotte is a monopole  located near the village. Lovely sweet fruit, with crunchy freshness and lacy tannins. The delicateness of the wine is very attractive and this will be approachable early.

Whites

2012 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie @ £495 per 6 bottles in bond

A blend of two south facing parcels located in Le Charlemagne and En Charlemagne with some vines dating back to 1954. Without doubt among the best Corton-Charlemagnes that we tried during our December en primeur tasting. The nose shows restrain and wet stone minerality, but the palate is followed with an explosive density of layers of lime, green fruit and smothered in white flowers with a golden honey note on the finish. The wine is very pure and the oak from the local forest of Citeaux is beautifully integrated. Very tight at this moment, this will require patience to open up, but when it does, it will be totally satisfying. Also very special is the 2012 Bâtard-Montrachet @ £990 per 6 bottles in bond, truly spectacular it offers a rare chance of buying one of the greatest white Burgundy at less than £170 per bottle in bond.

2012 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru, Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard @ £330 per 6 bottles in bond (magnums and Jeroboams are also available)

It seemed like Jean-Noel Gagnard could do nothing wrong in 2012 and tasting the range of wines was a real joy. Caillerets comes from the centre of the appellation (above Champs Gain) and shows an almost Grand Cru like texture. There is a core of dense exotic fruit with a finish that goes on and on. Brilliant. Also worth looking Caroline Gagnard's 2012 Bâtard-Montrachet @ £1200 per 6 bottles in bond.

2012 Chassagne-Montrachet, Tête du Clos, 1er Cru, Camille Giroud @ £270 per 6 bottles in bond

Restrained on the nose with a glorious texture on the palate. Layers of hazelnuts, fresh lemons and waxy green star fruit and finishes in an exuberant finish. The freshness balances the concentration of the wine and easily carries the extra new oak. Sadly only two barrels made. For a fantastic comparison, also worth picking up Ben Leroux's Tête du Clos 1er Cru @ £294 per 6 bottles in bond. An incredible wine, it would make a great comparable tasting of the two neighbours in a few years.

2012 Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine, Clos du Four, Héritiers du Comte Lafon @ £168 per 12 bottles in bond

This was my pick for best value wine, worth stocking up for mid-week drinking. For Dominique, this was the last vineyard to be picked in 2012 and shows a characteristic steely backbone that will allow this wine to age. It is poised, with plenty of wet stone minerality and a soft saline finish. Brilliant.

Chablis

I haven't personally tasted the 2012 Chablis, but the first reports have been favourable both from Jasper Morris MW and Allen Meadows and I have added Allen Meadows' tasting notes below.

2012 Chablis, Mont de Milieu, 1er Cru, Domaine Pinson @ £168 per 12 bottles in bond

(from a massive 5 ha parcel). A subtle touch of wood sets off ripe and mildly exotic yellow fruit aromas that possess enough Chablis character to be persuasive. There is fine mid-palate density as well as ample minerality on the mouth coating middle weight plus-sized flavors that culminate in a bone dry and highly persistent finish. This is a classically proportioned Mont de Milieu. (90-92)/2018+ (Allen Meadows, Burghound)

2012 Chablis, Les Preuses, Grand Cru,  Samuel Billaud @ £396 per 12 bottles in bond                  

(only 600 bottles will be produced). This is also attractively fresh with good ripeness to the white peach, pear, algae and oyster shell-suffused nose that is trimmed in just enough wood to notice. There is good volume and plenty of punch to the textured and intense middle weight flavors that exhibit a very mild sweetness on the finish that is likely from the wood treatment. I would surmise that the sweetness along with the wood will dissipate with a few years in bottle and my predicted range is predicated on that occurring. (90-92)/2017+ (Allen Meadows, Burghound

2012 Chablis, Les Clos, Grand Cru, Domaine William Fèvre @ £360 per 6 bottles in bond

(from 4 separate parcels totaling 4.11 ha, 3 of which are all at the top of the slope). There is noticeable wood on the ripe and intensely floral nose that also reflects notes of pear, white peach and algae. This is an imposingly scaled wine with its broad and muscular mouth feel that exudes a seemingly endless reserve of minerality on the almost painfully intense finish that delivers flat out amazing length. This is a very powerful wine that is akin to sucking on rocks it is so mineral-inflected. Brilliant. (93-96)/2022+(Allen Meadows, Burghound)

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